Yosemite Delivers

"Yosemite Valley embraces one of the world's most outstanding concentrations of waterfalls, granite walls, meadows, wildflowers, and trees." Yes, Yosemite National Park is a jewel even if we came in the fall when the waterfalls and flowers are waning, and the grass is gone dormant waiting for a rebirth in spring.
We were overwhelmed by the polished granite edifices that surround a friendly valley with the Merced River, calming meadows, and towering pines.

It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter. ~ John Muir

Yosemite Valley, to me is always a sunrise, a glitter of green and golden wonder in a vast edifice of stone and space. ~ Ansel Adams
We were glad that we included the one hour drive up to Glacier Point to behold the spectacular aerial view of the park, and the Mariposa Grove which includes some impressive old growth sequoia trees.

(Due to restrictions on Internet time I cannot provide as much detail as I hoped. Thanks to all who are following this western trek and for those who provide thoughtful comments.)

When have you experienced a 'Shangri La' moment in an idyllic setting, near or far from your home?

Hovering Golden Gate

We needed to include a visit to the Golden Gate Bridge before heading out five hours east to Yosemite National Park.

This technological marvel, coupled with the spectacular setting of spanning one of the most beautiful and strategic bays in the world, makes it a global tourist destination.

The bridge is, indeed, an incredible site and its character changes every day depending upon the weather conditions. We crossed with a fog hovering just below the bridge at about 10 in the morning.

There is something about the bridge which has inspired onlookers since 1937 when it was completed. Its span is 1,280 metres across a 120 metre deep strait at the mouth of the bay. It's a treacherous area with strong currents. Ocean tides drive 528 billion gallons of water every six hours through its mouth.

One has to marvel at the work of civil engineers who study models of load capacity and spans, materials, stresses, and aesthetics. Their work has withstood the test of time and the bridge is ranked as one of the most stunning pieces of architecture today.


In the photo there is a display model of one of the two giant cables which enables the bridge to support such tremendous weights:
- Main Span 4,200 feet
- Length of Cable: 7,650 feet
- Diameter of Cable: 55 inches
- Wires in Cable 27,572
- Total Wire Length 80,000 miles
- Weight of Cable 24,500 tons

Indeed, Golden Gate is a dynamic symbiosis of man and nature.

What bridge has caught your interest?

Spooked on Highway #1

Northern California has been yet another spectacular feast for the senses as we continued our trek south along the coast. This time the majestic Redwood is the signature tree of the parks. We passed through Redwood National Park and took the Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail in a remote valley where the First Lady dedicated the park in 1968.

By the 1960's most of the old growth trees had been cut down with the exception of a few areas. One can see why these trees are a logger's dream. They can rise up to 370 feet in the air and often have siblings which shoot up near the parent tree. The hard, exotic wood is prime for exotic construction applications. The walk also revealed a diversified understory of trees including rhododendron and a variety of berry bushes and ferns.

One is hushed and inspired by the mammoth trees which can provide over 1,500 years of perspectives. Despite their imposing presence they are kind enough to allow golden rays of light to reach the vegetation below.
After traveling on superhighway #101 south we took the turnoff to the beginning of coastal Highway #1. Be forewarned; this drive is not for the squeamish. First you travel a series of hair-raising narrow zigzags through coastal mountains, then when you reach the coast the highway often clings to the edges of cliffs which fall hundreds of feet to the sea below. The reward, however, is breathtaking vistas.
We were impressed by the surging power of the California coastline and surf. The waves and the beaches take on mythical quality as they crash against imposing rocks.
Finally on the approach to the San Francisco area the generous expanse of vineyards on the rolling countryside attest to the presence of a dominant industry in the area. The vines hang with their precious crop still gathering sweetness from the warmth of the California sun.

Oregon Vistas

It's Oregon, not Oregone if you don't want to be labeled a tourist. Highway 101 threads its way down the entire coastline of the state. We spent several days on this scenic avenue as we headed south often turning right to visit charming tourist towns, view stunning vistas, and camp close to the pounding surf.

On one beach at a state park a one hundred year old wreck provided an interesting counterpoint to several sunsets we enjoyed.
One of my favourite meals happened to be at a fish and chips place where we noticed the locals had created a line out the door. This is an albacore, salmon, and halibut extravaganza with the tastiest sauces.
Several interesting footnotes to the state. They charge no taxes. Yes, no taxes on purchased items. That's quite a contrast to our HST in Ontario of 15%! Also don't try to fill up your gas tank by yourself or there is over a $500 fine.

We have crossed the state line into California where we anticipate some interesting experiences. Thanks to readers and commentators who have followed our western trek so far.

Rich with History

We noticed that Lewis and Clark are important historical figures in these parts as we came to the border between Washington and Oregon. The mouth of the mighty Columbia River is the place where the two explorers found an end to their search for a vital east west connection.
(Painting by C. M. Russell, 1905)

Their expedition, commissioned as the Corps of Discovery by President Thomas Jefferson (1804-1806), took them up the Missouri River, through the Continental Divide, and down the Columbia. The two explorers were vital in opening up the western expansion of the U.S.

Lewis and Clark National Park provides an informative interpretative center and miles of panoramic coastline at the mouth of the Columbia. We stopped to enjoy the wonderful attractions available to us at this pivotal geographic location.
In the photo I am looking across the mouth of the Columbia River toward 'Cape Disappointment' where a previous explorer missed the importance of the historic river. I had never realized how large and significant the river is to the area and the country's history.

Nature's Utopia

It's hard to avoid superlatives when talking about the Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park, Washington. It's tucked away in an isolated valley protected from harsh winds and cold temperatures along the Hoh River. Most of the 30 mile river bank has been logged in the last century with the exception of this unique isolated sanctuary.

It contains old growth Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, and Douglas-fir where precipitation is up to 144 inches a year. The diameters of these majestic trees are up to 12 feet and soar over 200 feet high. We were amazed how the canopy filtered in light enough to encourage vibrant growth of ferns and mosses. Indeed, the mosses, which live from the moisture and the light, do not invade their hosts for food. Their effect is one of magical fantasy.

As campers we enjoyed our overnight stay at the campground beside the Hoh River. Large five foot ferns and mature old growth trees hovered around us. The next night we camped further south on the ocean front also within the park. Both nights we were lulled to sleep by the powerful waters.

Needless to say, the lush beauty of the park reveals the vibrancy of nature if we give it a chance.

We are now heading down the western coast and making our way into Oregon.

From Disappointment to Delight

We ascended through the Chinook Pass into Mount Rainier National Park, the highest mountain in Washington state. However, as we passed the majestic lookouts, we were wrapped in a misty rain and fog. Oh, well, it was the first time the weather did not cooperate with the chance to see thrilling vistas.

On the way down we stopped at a campsite in the national forest and our disappointment turned into delight. Here was a site of my dreams. It contained old growth Douglas Fir and western red cedar with some trunks measuring 7 feet in diameter and soaring in the sky. Also cascading springs carried crystal mountain water past our campsite, and the nearby river rushed on the other side.

The ground was spongy with humus and generous ferns, and the tree trunks thick with moss. As we enjoyed the evening here, we cherished the pristine setting all around us. (Our little white camper can be seen dwarfed by the trees.)

After passing endless views of sagebrush and scrub growth on our journey west, we are in for some nature shock. (As I type, we are in Port Angeles in the northwestern corner of Washington State. A short ferry ride would take us to Victoria on Vancouver Island. Olympic National Park beckons.)

Where are the Glaciers?

On our way west we decided to take a three hour drive north to Glacier National Park in northern Montana where they are celebrating their centennial (1910-2010). This park boasts a large number of glaciers; that is, sadly, they did over a century ago.

According to their latest newsletter, "In 1850 there were an estimated 150 glaciers in the park. Today there are 25. Scientists predict (at current rates of warming) the glaciers will disappear by 2020."

We took an exhilerating drive up to the highest point at over 6,300 feet elevation to Logan Pass. There we were enthralled by a hike through an alpine meadow with imposing peaks all around.

A note of interest to me as a Canadian is that it is now known as the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. Just north of Montana, Canada designated Waterton Lakes as a national park as well. Both governments now have joined the two into one international park to preserve and enjoy nature.

When have you enjoyed viewing a glacier? How do you feel about global warming and the loss of ice shelves throughout the world?

Yellowstone is Hot

Well, we made it: Yellowstone National Park. And as you see on the map this park is huge, encompassing 3,468 square miles or 2.2 million acres, comprising of lakes, canyons, rivers, mountain ranges. It is centered in northwest Wyoming and reaches into Montana and Idaho.

Yellowstone Lake is one of the largest high altitude bodies of water in North America. It is also home to the Yellowstone Caldera, the largest supervolcano on the continent. The park is the centerpiece of the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem including the ever popular Old Faithful Geyser. It takes several full days of driving just to get around this park. Then, you want to go back for more.

This park is hot for several reasons, including the fact that there are so many thermal features: geysers, hot springs, mudpots, and steam vents are everywhere.

Here are some dominant impressions we carry away:

- What foresight to begin the national parks idea in 1872. There was resistance by lobby groups at the time that this beautiful area should be exploited for its natural resources and be developed.
- We saw a scattering of wildlife: elk, buffalo, bears, wolves. The wolves were finding mice in the river bed, the baby cub frolicking at the river's edge, the bison feeding undisturbed in an extensive grassy plain.
- Most of the park is at about 8.000 ft. elevation. Temperatures went down to freezing over night at our campsite and we were glad to enjoy our heater for the first time.
- Old Faithful is not a cliche. We were deeply moved by her performance every ninety minutes. We saw it twice as we walked around the extensive walkways around the area. In the picture you see the new multimillion dollar interpretive centre which complements the pristine lady. Not to be undone, her lesser sibling a kilometer away put on an equally wonderful show.
- In 1988 there was a devastating fire which burned 1/3 of the park's beautiful pines. Now we see evidence that the burn rekindled a robust revival.
- Little discoveries abound. We saw an 8 meter tall petrified redwood tree which had been preserved by a volcanic cataclysm millions of years ago. It revealed that at one time the park had more tropical vegetation.
- Flowing fresh water abounds in the extensive lake, waterfalls, and rivers. Nothing is so inspiring as you appreciate its power.
- The thermal activity is incredible. The Mammoth Hot Spring deposit is extensive and is built up over 15 meters high.
- The park is maintained very well with friendly and knowledgeable rangers at a number of interpretive centers.
The visit to this incredible park is a portrait of nature's wonderful choreography.

Our next stop is the state of Washington and the wonderful coastal parks which await.

Monumental Rushmore

Including a visit to Mount Rushmore on our trek west was most enjoyed. Located in the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota the national memorial is breathtaking. We arrived at mid morning while the sun shone full into the faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln, four key presidents in the first 150 years of the nation's history.

The mountain was chosen for its hard granite features and imposing setting. Doane Robinson conceived the idea to promote tourism to South Dakota in 1923 and convinced President Calvin Coolidge, and a leading sculptor of the time, Gutzon Borghum, to undertake the project which lasted from 1927-1941. The faces are 18 meters high and contain intricate facial features.

It's always hard to capture the 360 degree, all encompassing feeling of a place. This sculpture within its setting is dramatic and deeply moving as the four presidents represent key notions of freedom, equality, and justice for all.

When have you felt moved at a beautiful sculpture or monument?

(This evening we are within 70 kilometers of Yellowstone National Park at the foot of the Rockies in Wyoming. Our drive brought us through hair raising switch backs up and down the sides of dramatic mountains. Hope to post an update in a few days about a pivotal national park.)

(I am humbled by the many wonderful comments so far. Thank you.)

A Merger of Wind, Rock, and Sky

Badlands National Park in South Dakota is a 244,000 acre landscape that is both barren and beautiful. After driving several hours through the Great Plains and vast expanses of grassland, an eerie moonscape of deep gorges and jagged sawtooth ridges opened up in front of us.

Around 65 million years ago, the area was lifted and transformed by vast geological forces. The black, muddy floor of an ancient sea that once covered this area was compressed into a band of 2,000 foot thick rock known as the Pierre Shale. Forests flourished and withered away. Volcanoes laid down a thick layer of ash and rivers repeatedly flooded the region, depositing sediment, and carving out odd spires and rock formations. Now the area is slowly eroding exposing fossilized remains of saber-toothed cats, and rhinoceros-like beasts.

We particularly liked hiking the trails in the morning when the sun cast its deepest shadows and played with the colour schemes of the multi-hued rocks.

As we sat on some upper promontories we felt the merger of wind, rock, and sky. We could look for miles across the stupendous landscape. Here the rocks seems to engage in a slow dance with the wind. The mixed species of grasses also participated in the grand spectacle. The air was dry, fresh, and revitalizing. We had never seen such an open sky.

(My two pictures project out from the edifices behind me. I found the vista looking out into the horizon most inspiring.)

Go West Old Man (2)

We have been staying in several KOA campgrounds on the way west. Both have relics of the past including a covered wagon. Imagine pulling up stakes and moving with your family to the wild frontier. What would you take?

Looking inside, the dimensions were about four by eight by five feet high. Not a lot of room to take your family of four kids.

There has to be room for some bedding, cooking utensils, an axe, some furniture. It occurs to me that it's the same challenge that campers face when they go on a play trek.

Those pioneer days encourages one to think about what it takes to begin again, leaving coveted things behind, pursuing new paths. What would you need to throw into your covered wagon?

(We have travelled almost four thousand kilometers as we reach the gates at the Badlands National Park in South Dakota. Starting in southern Ontario we have passed through Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota. Tomorrow we will enjoy this phenomenal park which took our breaths away when we arrived.)

Go West 'Old' Man

My wife and I are headed West on a rather ambitious trek. Our main focus is on some of the western U.S. national parks and coastline. Our interest was piqued, in part, by Ken Burns' The National Parks: America's Best Idea, the 2009 documentary.

Of course, the excitement of the budding frontier lured many colonists to the western reaches of North America. Today that same magnetism exists for travelers to appreciate some amazing vistas and experiences. I will be posting sporadically with limited time online. Comment moderation continues and days may go by before I have a chance to publish your valued comments.

Our itinerary will remain a bit of a mystery, and I'll reveal our experiences as we go.

Our mode of transportation, by the way, will not be by covered wagon but this.

'Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul.' ~ John Muir

When have you experienced an exciting travel adventure?

Image: Ansel Adams’ photograph "Clearing Winter Storm, Yosemite National Park" (about 1940) sold for a record $722,500 in New York in June of this year.

Call to the Living

I stumbled upon several quotations from Algernon Black a while back and they are like cool spring water for a thirsty traveler after a long hot day. Black (1932-72) was a graduate of Harvard, a humanist leader, educator, radio commentator, and affiliated with the New York Society of Ethical Culture.

The poem below appeals to our sense of justice, to our sensitivity to the community we live in both locally and globally, to our human spirit which can reach out to those who are hurting.

“This is a call to the living,
To those who refuse to make peace with evil,
With the suffering and the waste of the world.
This is a call to the human, not the perfect,
To those who know their own prejudices,
Who have no intention of becoming prisoners of their own limitations.
This is a call to those who remember the dreams of their youth,
Who know what it means to share food and shelter,
The care of children and those who are troubled,
To reach beyond barriers of the past
Bringing people to communion.
This is a call to the never ending spirit
Of the common man, his essential decency and integrity,
His unending capacity to suffer and endure,
To face death and destruction and to rise again
And build from the ruins of life.
This is the greatest call of all
The call to a faith in people."

The next passage asks us to reflect upon the world's philosophies and religions, those ideas we hold quite close to our heart, and consider the common threads which can bind us together with a common compassionate interest.

"Why not let people differ about their answers to the great mysteries of the Universe? Let each seek one's own way to the highest, to one's own sense of supreme loyalty in life, one's ideal of life. Let each philosophy, each world-view bring forth its truth and beauty to a larger perspective, that people may grow in vision, stature and dedication.

The religions of humanity should be a unifying force, for all the great religions reveal a basic unity in ethics. Whether it be Judaism, Christianity, Islam, Buddhism or Confucianism, all grow out of a sense of the sacredness of human life. This moral sensitivity to the sacredness of human personality -- the Commandments not to kill, not to hurt, not to put a stumbling block in the path of the blind, not to neglect the widow or the fatherless, not to exploit the servant or the worker -- all this can be found in the Bibles of humanity, in all the sacred books. All teach in substance: "Do unto others as you would that others should do unto you." There is, then, a basic unity among the great religions in the matter of ethics. True, there are religious philosophies which turn people away from the world, from the here and now, concentrating life-purposes on salvation for one's self or a mystic union with some supernatural reality. But most of the great religions agree on mercy, justice, love -- here on earth. And they agree that the great task is to move people from apathy, from an acceptance of the evils in life, to face the possibilities of the world, to make life sweet for one another instead of bitter. This is the unifying ethical task of all the religions -- yes, of all the philosophies of humankind. There is no need to force our own theological points of view upon one another or to insist that the moral life grows out of final, absolute authority."

Two passages to appeal to our inner desire for harmony, justice, and goodness in the world. Are they too idealistic?

Saturday Serendipities

Here are some great links for your Saturday reading pleasure. They're all rays of light and come from my blog roll. Why not give them a shout:

- Rebecca S. provides an interesting overview of a recent camping experience on the rugged west coast.

- Alan Burnett shares a treasure map to a forgotten historical site.

- Alaine@eclectique provides a pictorial of spring in Victoria, Australia.

- Sam Lui shares pictures and thoughts about his acting debut in Treasure Island.

- Martin Hodges pauses to write a late summer poem about nature.

- Linda Sue works wonders with 'ART, Design, WOOL, Rock, PAPER, Scissors, PASSION.'

- David King likes to mix water colour and haiku.

- Terresa Wellborn creates a wonderful recipe for the perennial writer.

- Finally Gabriela Abalo writes a haunting, infinitely sad post about the Charcoal-men who cut down trees in Africa to sell wood charcoal at the markets.

Any one want to join my blog roll or have a post to suggest? Email or post a comment. Feel free to use the image of radiating rays on your sidebar if you please.

Forbidden Fruit?

Why did Eve take an apple and eat of the forbidden fruit?

Perhaps this question is not about man or woman but about Every Person?

Vanity is so secure in the heart of man that everyone wants to be admired: even I who write this, and you who read this. ~Blaise Pascal

Most people dislike vanity in others, whatever share they have of it themselves; but I give it fair quarter, wherever I meet with it, being persuaded that it is often productive of good to the possessor, and to others who are within his sphere of action: and therefore, in many cases, it would not be altogether absurd if a man were to thank God for his vanity among the other comforts of life. ~Benjamin Franklin

You are free to eat from any tree in the garden; but you must not eat from the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, for when you eat of it you will surely die. Genesis 2:16, 17

When the woman saw that the fruit of the tree was good for food and pleasing to the eye, and also desirable for gaining wisdom, she took some and ate it. She also gave some to her husband, who was with her, and he ate it. Genesis 3:6

The apple, the man and woman, every person, human nature, good and evil; what's the essence of a vital life...??

Go to Magpie Tales #30 for more.

Bottled Teas a Scam?

I enjoy about three cups of green tea in the afternoon, (after several cups of coffee in the morning.) I buy a good quality organic tea and throw a bag in a five cup tea pot. The brew can be enjoyed for several hours. Researchers say this is the best way to enjoy the tea's health benefits with an antioxidant punch.

On the other hand, the bottled variety, which has enjoyed phenomenal growth over the last five years, has little to no health benefit. Also it packs a lot of calories thanks to all the added sugar.

“Out of 49 samples, half of the bottle teas contain less than 10 milligrams of polyphenols,” says one researcher.

A cup of home-brewed green or black tea has 50-150 milligrams of polyphenols. So you'd have to drink between 5 and 20 of those pint-size bottles of tea to get the same amount of antioxidants. That’s a lot of tea.

Bottled teas have increased 90 percent since 2004. And considering how much more bottled teas costs than tea bags, consumers aren’t getting a bargain when it comes to antioxidants.

"Polyphenols in tea start breaking down after the tea is brewed. So if a bottle has been sitting on the shelf for a while, there may be only a little — if any — antioxidants in the tea. Such small amounts won’t provide any of the health benefits."

To get the most out of your tea, the researcher suggests brewing a fresh batch in the morning and drinking the tea throughout the day. After 24 hours the tea should be chucked.

As for bottled teas, they may provide a satisfying taste and quench your thirst, but don’t expect them to do much for your health or waistline.